Sustainable Production of Leather Garments
Sustainable Production of Leather Garments
Business Model Description
Investments in setting up or scaling up a business to customer (B2C) directly or business to business (B2B) model with Equity and Debt financing model with adequate water and waste treatment plants and hygienic working conditions in the manufacturing units. Examples of companies active in this space are:
Leather Working Group (LWG) is a global multi-stakeholder community committed to building a sustainable future with responsible leather. It is a not-for-profit that drives best practices and positive social and environmental change for responsible leather production. Dada enterprises (ltd) is highly rated by the leather working group for following best standards of environment protection in the industry. On an area of 25 acres, tannery is in industrial zone, which supports the company's eco-friendly policies of extensive in-house processing, starting with the collection and sorting of raw skins to the packing of finished leather ready to be used by the customer. (11)
Muhammad Shafi Tanneries (MST)(Pvt.) Ltd is engaged in end-to-end leather processing and leather goods manufacturing. The company aspires to become an ecofriendly tannery. It has an installed Chrome Recovery Plant to recover chrome from effluents and recycled chrome is again used as part of the manufacturing process. (12)
(MST) also has a wastewater treatment plant with modern European equipment to ensure high quality of water being discharged from the tannery. The company also promotes ecofriendly articles which are free from Azo Dyes, PCP and Chrome. MST is "silver rated" by the leather working group. (12)
Expected Impact
Job creation, providing better incomes and financial health for relevant workforce with positive impact on the environment. Increase in exports and a reduction in trade imbalance.
How is this information gathered?
Investment opportunities with potential to contribute to sustainable development are based on country-level SDG Investor Maps.
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Country & Regions
- Pakistan: Punjab
- Pakistan: Sindh
Sector Classification
Consumer Goods
Development Needs
In Pakistan, since the pandemic, 7 million workers have been laid off in the textile sector due to low exports and the country’s prevailing economic crisis. In Faisalabad's cluster alone 1.3 million workers, half of whom are women, have lost jobs. (1) Flood-related cotton losses are expected to impact the industry, as local cotton constitutes about half of the industry’s required cotton input. (2)
Policy priority
Strategic Trade Policy Framework and Board of Investment have identified textile value addition as a priority sector to enhance consumer goods manufacturing, in addition to textiles and apparel, sectors such as footwear, food processing, Pharmaceutical and medical devices and the like have given priority and assigned interventions by GOP to ensure sectorial needs are met. (3)
Gender inequalities and marginalization issues
As per gender situation analysis of the textile and apparel sector, it has been found that generally employers are biased against women employees, and they are rarely offered permanent contracts. They are also deprived of paid maternity leave, and functional day care centres among other facilities. (4) Women also play a vital role in the uptake of consumer goods as a part of the retail and distribution chain. A study suggests a positive influence of both gender-based selling and culture on buying behaviour of consumers. (5)
Investment opportunities
Among the consumer goods, Textile is the largest industry of Pakistan, and the country is 8th largest exporter of textile products in Asia. It is 4th largest producer and 3rd largest consumer of cotton. It comprises of 46 percent of total manufacturing sector and provides employment to 40 percent of the total labor force. 5 percent of total textile companies are listed. (6)
Key bottlenecks
The main challenges impacting the sector are energy crises, fluctuating yarn prices, shortage of gas supply and load shedding, law and order situation, devaluation of Pakistani currency, lack of research and development (R&D) institutions, lack of modern equipment and machinery and production cost. (7)
Apparel and Textiles
Development need
In 2019-20 the exports of leather apparel and products was USD 700 Million. As a part of strategic trade policy framework, considering the potential in leather sector, till 2025 the exports are projected to reach USD 795 to 1 billion. To actualize this, targeted investments are required in making 'finished' leather products. (3)
Policy priority
Pakistan textile policy 2020-2025 with varied and relevant objectives: To leverage advantage of complete textiles and apparel supply chain by encouraging value-addition at each stage, especially in the finished products; To restore profitability of input providers by increasing product range, improving quality and decreasing cost of production is imperative.
(7)"
Gender inequalities and marginalization issues
Post pandemic women have been impacted by the layoffs. The working conditions, for women in the industry, however, need complete overhaul; they work for low wages in labor intensive units, with fewer incentives and growth opportunities. Women have underpaid salaries, face harassment at work and having no healthcare facilities. (1) The textile and garment industry employ around 30 percent percent of the women in total textile workforce according to the Pakistan Institute of Labour Education and Research (PILER) (8)
Investment opportunities
Pakistan is considered as a hub for production of high-quality leather and leather products and about 800 tanneries in the country are actively engaged in producing the finest quality leather. Value added apparel and products from leather are key areas of investment along with sustainable practices and standards to address sustainability issues need to be adopted. (9)
Key bottlenecks
The main challenges are lack of skilled manpower, lack of complementary industries for value added production, poor tannery effluent discharge management, and lack of quality certification. (10)
Apparel, Accessories and Footwear
Pipeline Opportunity
Sustainable Production of Leather Garments
Investments in setting up or scaling up a business to customer (B2C) directly or business to business (B2B) model with Equity and Debt financing model with adequate water and waste treatment plants and hygienic working conditions in the manufacturing units. Examples of companies active in this space are:
Leather Working Group (LWG) is a global multi-stakeholder community committed to building a sustainable future with responsible leather. It is a not-for-profit that drives best practices and positive social and environmental change for responsible leather production. Dada enterprises (ltd) is highly rated by the leather working group for following best standards of environment protection in the industry. On an area of 25 acres, tannery is in industrial zone, which supports the company's eco-friendly policies of extensive in-house processing, starting with the collection and sorting of raw skins to the packing of finished leather ready to be used by the customer. (11)
Muhammad Shafi Tanneries (MST)(Pvt.) Ltd is engaged in end-to-end leather processing and leather goods manufacturing. The company aspires to become an ecofriendly tannery. It has an installed Chrome Recovery Plant to recover chrome from effluents and recycled chrome is again used as part of the manufacturing process. (12)
(MST) also has a wastewater treatment plant with modern European equipment to ensure high quality of water being discharged from the tannery. The company also promotes ecofriendly articles which are free from Azo Dyes, PCP and Chrome. MST is "silver rated" by the leather working group. (12)
Business Case
Market Size and Environment
USD 100 million - USD 1 billion
< 5%
There are 800 tanneries (9) which produce raw material and employ 500,000 workers (14)
Within the leather garment sector, Italy, India and Pakistan are the top three exporters, having exported leather garments worth USD 422.1 million, USD 320.6 and USD 237.5 Million, in 2020. However, global supply of such commodities has steadily declined over the years, reaching a total export value of USD 2.3 billion in 2020. (10)As per Leather Manufacture Economic Survey, market size was USD 463.9 million in 2021-22 (13)
As per the strategic trade policy framework, there is an export potential of USD 795 to over USD 1 billion. (3) As per the Pakistan Tanner Association, leather and leather products have an export size of USD 861 million in between 2017-2021 (15)
Indicative Return
> 25%
Ministry of Commerce and Small and Medium Enterprise Development Authority's (SMEDA)pre-feasibility study for local and foreign investors. (21) As per the Pakistan Tanner Association, leather and leather products have an export size of USD 861 million in between 2017-2021 (15)
Expert consultations have suggested that due to higher exports, businesses operating in this space enjoy good returns. Raw material is cheap and once a year due to religious festival of Ramazan it is abundantly available.
Investment Timeframe
Short Term (0–5 years)
As per Ministry of Commerce's pre- feasibility, pay Back Period is 3.8 years. Year one is for establishing units or surveying markets in Pakistan in case of joint ventures and contracting. Year two for sustainable supply chain development following which the companies start registering profit. (16)
Ticket Size
USD 500,000 - USD 1 million
Market Risks & Scale Obstacles
Market - Highly Regulated
Capital - CapEx Intensive
Market - Highly Regulated
Impact Case
Sustainable Development Need
The water waste from the industry is considered the most toxic. The indiscriminate discharge of water waste has adverse environmental and public health impacts. These include chemicals like Chromium, Sodium, Chloride ions. This indicates a need for industry wide infrastructure development with water treatment plants built within the production units. (19)(20)
The workers are exposed to hazardous materials and toxins in the process of tanning the leather sources. There is a dire need to ensure tanneries and manufacturing units enforce and provide their workers protective gear as long-term exposure to leather dusts, lead, NO2, SO2, H2S causes high rate of morbidity and mortality.
In addition to worker health, water pollution, during leather processing, various air pollutants including H2S, NH3, SO2, CO2, Cl2, fume of formic acid and volatile organic compounds are discharged into atmosphere. (19)(20)
Gender & Marginalisation
The female workforce participation in this industry is 30 percent and textile and apparels is the largest industry that employs the highest rate of women. Women are only employed for few trades in textile sector such as stitching and quality assurance, showing a need for more diversity in terms of job options available to women. (21)
Women are also deprived of paid maternity leave, flexible work hours and functional day care centers among other facilities. It was also observed that career progression chances for women were higher in large textile units as compared to small and medium units. Training opportunities for women are also limited (22)
Employers are biased against women employees who are rarely offered permanent contracts. They are also deprived of paid maternity leave, functional day care centers among other facilities. In a nutshell, there is need to broaden the job types; introduce fair paying systems for women. (22)
Expected Development Outcome
It is expected that the flow of foreign investments will help the industry plug into the global supply chains more seamlessly pushing local suppliers to comply more strongly with relevant sustainability frameworks. It is expected that water treatment plants, working conditions will be taken care as for export global standards will have to be met. This will help push the sector become more future fit and sustainable.
The need case and expected outcomes are pertinent in the case of leather industry because after textiles, leather has the largest export potential in Pakistan.
Gender & Marginalisation
Increase in participation of women in the industry workforce in diverse roles that help them navigate into well-paying leadership roles over and above the traditional roles.
Increase in incomes, better career progression, better contracts and better working and supportive environment for women.
Primary SDGs addressed
9.2.1 Manufacturing value added as a proportion of GDP and per capita
9.3.1 Proportion of small-scale industries in total industry value added
On SDG 9 manufacturing value added (MVA) as a proportion of GDP slightly reduced to 12.23 percent from 13.56 percent between 2015- 20 at the national level. Though MVA declined, manufacturing employment as a proportion of total employment remain unchanged at 15 percent during 2015-19 at the national level. This proportion significantly decreased by 7 percent in Balochistan from 11 percent to 4 percent during 2015-19. (23)
The proportion of small-scale industries to total industry value added increased to 10.50 percent in 2019-20 from 8.40 percent in 2014-15, despite the overall negative effects of COVID-19 in 2019-20. (23)
The national vision 2025 and voluntary national review, strategic trade policy framework considers increase of value-added manufacturing important for Goal 9 but do not provide a specific quantifiable target.
The national vision 2025 and Strategic Trade Policy and Voluntary National Review consider increase in small scale industry proportion as an important metric of development but do not provide a specific quantifiable target.
12.4.2 (a) Hazardous waste generated per capita; and (b) proportion of hazardous waste treated, by type of treatment
In 2015, Pakistan was party to four international agreements on hazardous waste. From 2015 to 2020 on two agreements the country's performance was 100 percent while the performance decreased to 25 percent from 50 percent for Stokholm and improved for Rotterdam convention to 70 percent from 64 percent. (23)
The target levels of compliance of four conventions on hazardous waste was set at 100 percent compliance. (Rotterdam, Stockholm, Montreal Protocol and Basel Convention) (23)
5.5.2 Proportion of women in managerial positions
The percentage of women in managerial positions has increased from 2.70 percent in 2014 to 4.53 percent in 2019. (23)
The National Vision 2025 by Government sets the target of increasing women labor force participation from 24 to 45 percent by 2025 but does not give a specific target of increasing their presence in managerial positions.
Secondary SDGs addressed
Directly impacted stakeholders
People
Gender inequality and/or marginalization
Planet
Corporates
Public sector
Indirectly impacted stakeholders
People
Gender inequality and/or marginalization
Corporates
Public sector
Outcome Risks
With the increase in demand, there is a risk of increased pressure on product delivery which could lead to producers by-passing the environmental safeguards to save costs.
Out of 184 registered tanneries, the country only has three Leather Working Group certified tanneries. If international standards are not adopted, the exports and global business access will be limited (25)
Gender inequality and/or marginalization risk: On average, women earn less than men, are segregated in the lowest skill, lowest wage occupations (26)
Gender inequality and/or marginalization risk: Women are underrepresented in supervisory and management roles relative to their share in total employment in the sector (27)
Impact Risks
The impact risk is significant in this investment opportunity as all stakeholders may not be in line with the climate responsible, labor health supportive and worker wage sensitive agenda of within the leather industry.
Lack of employment opportunities, decent work for skilled and unskilled workers, employees, cotton pickers to organized facilities may continue if the investments do not account for and address such exclusions.
Gender inequality and/or marginalization risk: the sector poses risks in terms of poor working conditions and violations of labor rights that are well documented and need to be recognized by investors and businesses alike (27)
Impact Classification
What
Impact by increased revenues of firms through leather value chain in Pakistan as leather raw material is sourced and processed locally, supplying to both domestic and global markets.
Risk
Business model has a risk in case the sustainable practices are not followed, the business will harm workers, environment and will not be able to access investments and market abroad.
Contribution
The IOA would directly contribute to the increase in employment in the sector, contribution to GDP and greening of the leather industry.
Impact Thesis
Job creation, providing better incomes and financial health for relevant workforce with positive impact on the environment. Increase in exports and a reduction in trade imbalance.
Enabling Environment
Policy Environment
Strategic Trade Policy Framework: The policy framework states the incentives and interventions for traditional priority sectors for export. Among others, these sectors include leather as a traditional priority sector. (3)
Strategic Trade Policy Framework: The framework provides actions for enhancing the competitiveness of the sector, promotes integration into global value chains and trade facilitation for the exporters. (3)
Textile Policy 2020-2025: Pakistan Textile Policy with its four-tier strategy and 21 recommendations aims to increase the country’s textile exports target by 2025 to USD 25.3 billion and to USD 50 billion by 2030. (7)
The Textile policy encourages investments for technology upgradation, infrastructure development and integration with global value chain. Special focus given to marketing, regulatory and international standards compliance for SMEs. (7)
Financial Environment
Financial incentives: Refinance Scheme for Working Capital Financing by SBP (markup 6%), (24)(31)
Fiscal incentives: Exemption of custom duty on tanned hides and skin, Exemption of custom duty on plant and machinery used in manufacturing of goods. (24) (31)
Other incentives: Support is provided to the leather garment industry by exempting custom duties on imports, enhancing duty drawback rates on leather garments, decreasing regulatory duties and initiating the project of Sialkot Tannery Zone. (32)
Regulatory Environment
National Environment Quality Standards related to municipal and industrial effluents SRO no. 742 (1)/93 & S.R.O. 1023 (I)/95 and all provincial environment protection acts. (29)
"Companies Ordinance 1984, Punjab Essential Articles (Control) Act, 1973 Punjab Industrial Development Board Act, 1973 Punjab Small Industries Corporation Act, 1973, Punjab Industries Ordinance 1963 (30) "
International Regulation: European Standards for leather industry. There are currently 143 standards with relevance to leather products. These standards cover a number of fields.
Marketplace Participants
Private Sector
Tanneries and Leather Processing Units and Businesses, Like Siddiq (ltd), Dada Pvt Ltd, Mohammad Shafi Tanneries (ltd)
Government
Ministry of Industries and Production, Industries and Commerce Departments of Provincial Governments
Multilaterals
International Finance Cooperation, International Labour Organization, USAID (United States Agency for International Development)
Non-Profit
Non-Profit: Pakistan Footwear Manufacturers Association (PFMA) in collaboration with Pakistan Tanners Association (PTA), Pakistan Gloves Manufacturers and Exporters Association (PGMEA) and with the support of Pakistan Leather Garments Manufacturers & Exporters Association (PLGMEA).
Target Locations
Pakistan: Punjab
Pakistan: Sindh
References
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